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Hotel restaurants face a difficult balancing act between the scintillating and the safe. Citrus, located within Cleveland's InterContinental Hotel, errs on the safe side, but its constantly changing menu offers satisfying results. Sea bass takes center plate in a stellar presentation, nestled on dual pools of black olive and fresh herb purees; a verdant trio of snow peas, slender asparagus and green beans, lightly steamed and buttered, presents the perfect accompaniment. The same vegetable medley sides a sizable flank steak, cut like a strip, but with big flavor and surprising tenderness - so good, the morel reduction beneath it is rendered nearly unnecessary. The dining area is attractive, with curvy two-toned wood and serpentine ironwork; however, beware the loud talk and laughter from the lounge, which can disrupt your quiet evening meal.
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